Thanksgiving to March 31st:
Mon — Fri: 9 AM - 5 PM
April 1st to Thanksgiving:
Mon & Fri: 9 AM – 5 PM
Tue – Thu: 9 AM – 8 PM
A clean, inviting swimming pool with sparkling clear water is not difficult for even the novice pool owner to achieve. All that is required is an understanding of your pool equipment, the water in your pool and the factors that influence both.
Chemical treatment of your pool water is necessary for two primary reasons:
Algae are microscopic forms of plant life that are introduced into your pool through rain, wind and dust storms. There are many types of algae, some of which are very resistant to regular chemical treatment. For this reason, algae can grow in pools even if the chlorine residual is in the proper range.
It is easier to prevent algae than to kill an existing growth. In algae prone areas (usually, but not limited to, hot humid climates with an abundance of plant life), the use of a good algaecide is recommended on a regular basis.
AQUA Wham-O is a highly concentrated algae preventative and algaecide recommended for use in chlorine treated pools. At low dosage levels, usually 20 – 50 mL per 10,000 litres every two weeks, AQUA Wham-O kills algae as it enters your pool, thus preventing it from gaining a foothold and becoming a serious problem. But don’t worry if your pool looks like a swamp, a dose of AQUA Wham-O (usually 90 – 150 mL per 10,000 litres) combined with a “shock” treatment can turn your pool into a sparkling blue swimming pool in no time.
Sanitation refers to the control of infectious organisms (bacteria, virus, etc.), the removal of excess organics (perspiration, urine, body oils) and the prevention of algae growth. Proper pool water sanitation, then, must satisfy three basic requirements, individually and as a whole.
To sanitize your pool you can use either Chlorine or Bromine.
Aqua Stabilized Chlorine comes in two different forms: quick dissolving granular Dichlor and compressed Trichlor. The Trichlor is available in 15, 50, 200 and 228 gram sizes.
Granulated Dichlor can be added almost immediately to the pool (once it has been predissolved). This means if your chlorine level has dropped too low, your pool will be safe for swimming 30 minutes after adding Dichlor. Granular Dichlor should be added daily (or as required) to maintain a safe chlorine residual of 1-3 ppm.
Trichlor tablets dissolve more slowly and are fed into the pool gradually through an automatic feeder or by dissolving in the skimmer. An automatic feeder is preferred because it helps maintain a more constant chlorine residual.
WARNING: When using an automatic chlorinator, do not add any chemical other than those recommended by the manufacturer. Using the wrong chemical can result in fire and/or explosion.
No matter which form of chlorine is used, you must maintain a chlorine residual of 1-3 ppm. As long as the residual does not drop below 1 ppm, the water will be sanitary.
When chlorine is added to pool water, some of it is used to satisfy an initial chlorine demand. The chlorine is consumed by destroying existing algae and bacteria, and by breaking up organic waste. Once this initial demand has been met, the chlorine that remains is your total chlorine. Total chlorine consists of “free” chlorine and “combined” chlorine. Free chlorine is the active chlorine available for sanitation. Combined chlorine is chlorine that is tied up with organic waste, and forms what we call chloramines. Chloramines are responsible for eye irritation and offensive “chlorine odour”. Also, when chlorine is tied up in chloramines, it loses most of its effectiveness as a sanitizer. In a properly maintained pool, total chlorine should equal free chlorine so that combined chlorine (chloramines) are not present.
Bromine is available as a compressed tablet. Bromine is more effective in higher pH ranges. Also, bromine when coupled with nitrogenous waste will form bromamines. Bromamines are good disinfectants. When chlorine, on the other hand, forms chloramines they have no disinfecting properties.
To effectively eliminate chloramines from pool water, super chlorination or “shocking” is necessary. Shocking should be performed on a weekly basis or whenever you notice a “chlorine odour” . Shock your pool using either AQUA Shock or AQUA Brite Plus.
AQUA Shock is calcium hypochlorite or what we call unstabilized chlorine. The best time to use AQUA Shock is last thing in the evening because it will raise both your the pH and the chlorine residual. They will both return to normal after a few hours.
AQUA Brite Plus, on the other hand, is a non-chlorine shock and swimming can be permitted after a 15 minute waiting period. AQUA Brite Plus can be added directly into the pool and leaves no residual.
Water Balance is a term used to describe the interaction of pH, Total Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness, and their overall effect on your pool equipment, water quality and the pool itself. We will discuss each factor separately and then as a whole.
pH is a measurement of the relative acidity and basicity (alkalinity) of water. pH is measured on a scale that runs from 0 to 14. pH values below 7 are acidic and values higher than 7 are basic (alkaline). AQUA pH Minus has a pH of 1.5 and is used to lower the pH of pool water. AQUA pH Plus has a pH of 11.5 and is used to raise the pH of pool water. Your pool water should always have a pH in the range of 7.4 to 7.8.
Ideal Range: 7.4 – 7.6
High pH can cause: eye irritation, cloudy water, scaling, and inefficient use of sanitizers.
Low pH can cause: eye burn, etched plaster, corrosion and staining.
Total Alkalinity refers to the amount of alkaline material (carbonates, bicarbonates and hydroxides) in your pool water. Pool water with low TA is sensitive to a change in pH. The pH will “bounce” from high to low and back up again very quickly. Pool water with too high a TA is very resistant to a change in pH making it difficult to adjust pH when necessary.
The proper range of TA is 120 to 150 ppm in plaster or marbalite finished pools and 125 to 175 ppm in fibreglass, vinyl-lined or painted pools.
Ideal Range: plaster: 100 – 150 ppm, vinyl: 125 – 175 ppm
High TA can cause: eye irritation, cloudy water, scaling, and make pH difficult to adjust.
Low TA can cause: eye burn, etched plaster, corrosion and staining.
Total Hardness refers to the amount of calcium and magnesium carbonate in water. In pool water chemistry we are interested only in the calcium hardness (CH) of your pool water.
You should test for CH at opening, mid-season and just before closing your pool for the winter. If your pool is open all year, test for CH every 3 months.
Ideal Range: plaster: 225 – 300 ppm, vinyl: 175 – 250 ppm
High CH can cause: cloudy water, scaling.
Low CH can cause: etched plaster, corrosion and staining.
Sunlight can rapidly destroy chlorine residual in outdoor pools unless the chlorine is stabilized. Stabilization refers to the ability of the sanitizing chemical to resist deactivation by sunlight. If the chlorinating chemical is stabilized, this process is slowed significantly and the chlorine remains effective longer, even in bright sunlight.
Acid: A chemical which lowers pH when added to water. (AQUA pH Minus)
Algae: Microscopic aquatic plant life which can grow on pool surfaces or float free in the water. (AQUA Wham-O)
Base: A chemical which raises pH when added to water. (AQUA pH Plus)
Bacteria: One celled organisms, some of which cause disease and/or infection. Without proper sanitation, pool water and pool surfaces are perfect breeding grounds for bacteria.
Calcium Hardness(CH): The quantity of calcium dissolved in the water. (AQUA Cal)
Chlorine: The sanitizer and oxidizer most commonly used in swimming pools.
Organic Waste: Nitrogen and ammonia bearing compounds such as urine, saliva, perspiration, body oils and suntan lotions that are continuously introduced into pool water by swimmers. Most organic wastes will not filter out and must be chemically removed (oxidized) with a periodic shock treatment.
pH: The measurement of water’s relative acidity and basicity. The pH range is from 0 – 14; a pH of 7 is neutral. pH values below 7 are acidic and values higher than 7 are basic. The recommended pH for pool water is 7.2 to 7.8.
Residual: The amount of a compound existing in water, usually expressed as parts per million.
Sanitizer: A chemical compound, such as chlorine and bromine, which disinfects (kills bacteria), kills algae, and oxidizes organic matter.
Shock: The process of introducing significant quantities of an oxidizer to water to bring about the chemical destruction of excess organic wastes.
Total Alkalinity (TA): The amount of bicarbonate, carbonate and hydroxides present in water. TA acts as a pH buffer.
1 sp | One speed, or a single speed pump motor. |
115/230V | Accepts both 115V or 230V, known as a reversible motor voltage. |
12 x 1Qt / Cs | 12 – 1 Qt bottles per Case. |
2 sp | Two speed, or a dual speed pump motor. |
2-way | A valve with two ports, one in and one out. |
3-way | A valve with three ports, one in and two out, or two in and one out. |
60 hz | Frequency of electrical power, in the US it is 60 cycles per second. |
ABS | Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene – a form of thermoplastic. |
AV | Anti-Vortex, used to describe drain covers that won’t produce a vortex. |
DISC | Discontinued. Obsolete (OBS) or No Longer Available (NLA). |
EA | Each. Used to define an individual unit, or an item sold individually. |
EXT | Extension, or Extended, or an item that is extra long. |
FIP | Female Iron Pipe. A fitting with threads on the inside. |
FPT | Female Pipe Taper. threaded fitting, used interchangeably with FIP or FIPT |
FR | Frame type designation for motors. 48, 48Y, 56 or 56J. |
GHT | Garden Hose Thread, different size thread than NPT. |
Hx Hd | Hex Head screw. Use nutdriver, socket or small wrench to remove. |
HP | Horsepower, a measurement of motor work potential. 1 hp = 746 watts. |
ID | Inner Diameter, used to define pipe and fitting internal dimensions. |
Kit | A package of parts, usually a complete construction set. |
MFD | Microfarad – one millionth of a farad, a measurement of capacitance. |
MIP | Male Iron Pipe. A fitting with Iron size threads on the outside. |
MPT | Male Pipe Threads. Used interchangeably with MIP. |
MPV | Multi Port Valve, used for backwashing sand and DE pool filters. |
NLA | No Longer Available. Discontinued (DISC) or Obsolete (OBS). |
NPS | National Pipe Straight. Fitting with non-tapered threads. |
NPT | National Pipe Taper. Pipe and fitting thread dimensions. |
NSF | National Sanitation Foundation. Certification required for some commercial pool equipment. |
OBS | Obsolete. No longer available (NLA) or Discontinued (DISC). |
OD | Outer Diameter. Measurement for pipes and fittings. |
Pr. | Pair – a set of two. |
Pan Hd | Pan Head screw, with rounded top. Use Phillips screwdriver. |
Pcs. | Pieces. Used to define number of items in a kit or pak. |
Pk | Pak, or Pack. Can be identical or different items in a pak. |
Req | Required. Number of parts needed. i.e., 6-req. means 6 ea. are used. |
SF | Service Factor. Multiplied by HP, is total output of a motor. |
SKT | Socket. Used interchangeably with Slip. A fitting without threads. |
SPG | Spigot. A male end that glues or threads into another. Also called Street. |
SS | Stainless Steel. Used extensively in pool equipment. |
SQ FT | Square Foot – Measurement used for pool filter media surface area. |
uF | Microfarad – the same as MFD. Sizing used by Run capacitors. |
UWF | Universal Wall Fitting, used on Polaris pool cleaners |
Air Relief | On top of a filter, to release air in the filter tank. |
Bulkhead | Attachment that holds pipes entering and exiting a filter tank. |
Burner tray | Assembly of gas heater burners, pilot, gas valve and gas manifold. |
Cap | A cap fits over a pipe, and can be threaded or slip. Opposite of a Plug. |
Capacitor | Stores energy, like a battery. Used to start electric motors. |
Clamp | Belly band filter clamps, MPV clamps or radiator hose clamps |
Compression fitting | A fitting used to join pipe or hose together, with a outer compression nut and inner compression ring. |
Coupling | A connector or junction, used to couple or join two pieces of pipe or hose. |
Diffuser | A perforated device to spread out or diffuse water as it enters a sand filter. |
Debris Bag | Pool cleaner bag that holds vacuumed debris. |
Dome | Lid for sand filter with a side mount valve. |
Elbow | A 90 degree fitting, or a 45 degree fitting used in plumbing or electrical wiring. |
Element | An electric heater element, or a cartridge filter element. |
Escutcheon plates | Beauty rings used to cover ladder and handrail anchor sockets. |
Ferrule | The internal compression ring used in a compression fitting. |
Filter media | The material used to filter your water. Diatomaceous Earth, Spun Polyster or #20 silica sand. |
Foot | The base of a pool filter or pool pump. |
Gas valve | The internal gas valve that sends propane or natural gas to the pilot and burners. |
Gasket | A mechanical seal in a flat shape. Usually made of paper, rubber, or cork. |
Grid | For DE pool filters, a grid is a plastic frame covered in a polyester fabric. |
Header | Front and rear manifolds used on pool heaters to direct water through the heat exchanger. |
Heat exchanger | A set of 8-10 copper or titanium finned tubes which absorb heat from the burner tray. |
Hose | Backwash hose, Vacuum hose, Aboveground filter hose, Pool cleaner feed hose. |
Hose adapter | A fitting that is threaded on one end, and tapered on the opposite end to insert into a hose. |
Hose nut | Used on pressure pool cleaners to join together sections of feed hose. |
Lateral | Slotted plastic pipes in a sand filter, to strain out filtered water from the sand. |
Lid | Top access for pumps baskets, clam-shell type filters or chlorinators. |
Manifold | Directs water in specific directions. DE filters use a manifold on top of the grid assembly. |
Module | The controller for an electronic pool heater. Also called an IID (intermittant ignition device). |
Nipple | A short section of pipe, threaded on one or both ends. |
O-ring | Ring of certain size, formed of a specific diameter of round rubber cord, seals pressurized equipment. |
Pilot | Older millivolt heaters have a constant pilot light, Newer heaters light a pilot only when needed. |
Plug | A plug fits inside of a pipe or hole, and is either threaded, slip or expandable. |
Quick disconnect | A type of connector shell that permits rapid locking and unlocking connector halves. |
Reducer | A coupling with different pipe size connections on either end, reducing the pipe size. |
Reducer Bushing | Insert reducer, threaded or slip, glues inside of a fitting to reduce connecting pipe diameter. |
Rotor | The footpad inside of a multiport valve, which rotates to create different flow directions. |
Saddle clamp | A curved assembly that clamps to a pipe, to hold a flow meter or injection fitting. |
Seal | Mechanical shaft seals behind a pump’s impeller to prevent water leakage along the shaft. |
Seal plate | The plate that connects to the motor and to the volute, and holds half of the shaft seal. |
Set screw | A small hex head screw used to hold a stub shaft onto a keyed shaft motor. |
Spider gasket | Square cut rubber with a wagon wheel appearance, for sealing multiport valve ports. |
Standpipe | The vertical pipe within a pool filter, which carries out of the filter. |
street elbow | A 90 degree fitting which has one side threaded or smooth for slip insert. |
Tee | A three port fitting, in the shape of the letter T with many uses. |
Terminal board | Wires connect to a terminal board, for motors, timeclocks and controllers. |
Throttling plug | Small threaded plug with slots. Used to reduce flow from skimmers close to the pump. |
Transformer | Used for pool heaters, low voltage lights, and robotic pool cleaners. Reduces incoming voltage. |
Tread | Ladder treads, used on pool slides, or for entering or exiting a pool. |
Union | A coupling with an internal o-ring, and a nut to tighten. Makes future removal easy. |
Volute | The impeller housing of a pool pump. The shape creates vacuum and pressure. |
Weir | That flapper door thingy in the skimmer. |
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